I got this a while back , and was wondering if its really worth using for a training sword.
I like it , it feels good and all.
Just wondering what others who have spent more time training than i have think about it.
Whats is your opinion on this training sword?
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Kashikoi_Takumi
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2013 7:53 pm
Whats is your opinion on this training sword?
"To get better, you must have a open mind"
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Corey Roberts
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sat May 07, 2005 6:11 pm
- Location: Pyeongtaek, South Korea
I have not handled it myself, but some of our members have. I heard it was rather klunky in it's handling characteristics, far too thick, and had rough unfinished edges on the hilt that had a high risk of causing injury. Kind of a big plastic club is basically the summary I have heard from those who've worked with it.
--Scholar-Adept
Pyeongtaek
Republic of Korea
Pyeongtaek
Republic of Korea
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Kevin Reicks
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:06 pm
I have heard the same things as Corey and handled one once. I'll add that I have also read they a nasty flex edge to edge, like if you hit take a propper swing at a target like a pell, it can flex back toward you like a boffler/LARP sword. The flexy bouncyness also hurts binding/sword on sword actions. They don't react like steel on steel or wood on wood.
This I have read from reliable sources, take it as you will. I wasn't sure I should comment, but simce so few others have I thought I would ad that. I did handle one that was modified. A hole was drilled in to the pommel and pieces of lead or steel was put in to feel more balanced. Didn't get the chance to wack anything with it.
If you are looking to save money, have you considered making one? How much do you know about power tools and carpentry? After 2 failures, I made my own longsword waster.
This I have read from reliable sources, take it as you will. I wasn't sure I should comment, but simce so few others have I thought I would ad that. I did handle one that was modified. A hole was drilled in to the pommel and pieces of lead or steel was put in to feel more balanced. Didn't get the chance to wack anything with it.
If you are looking to save money, have you considered making one? How much do you know about power tools and carpentry? After 2 failures, I made my own longsword waster.
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Isaac Mogk
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 10:55 am
- Location: Burleson, TX
Do you have any pics of your home built wasters you can post on here? I made a rough one from a maple sappling last time I was out camping. 35" blade 12" hilt. I need to add some weight to it though. I am very curious as to what others are making them from and how they're holding up.Kevin Reicks wrote:I have heard the same things as Corey and handled one once. I'll add that I have also read they a nasty flex edge to edge, like if you hit take a propper swing at a target like a pell, it can flex back toward you like a boffler/LARP sword. The flexy bouncyness also hurts binding/sword on sword actions. They don't react like steel on steel or wood on wood.
This I have read from reliable sources, take it as you will. I wasn't sure I should comment, but simce so few others have I thought I would ad that. I did handle one that was modified. A hole was drilled in to the pommel and pieces of lead or steel was put in to feel more balanced. Didn't get the chance to wack anything with it.
If you are looking to save money, have you considered making one? How much do you know about power tools and carpentry? After 2 failures, I made my own longsword waster.
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Kevin Reicks
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2012 12:06 pm
I do not have any pics, sorry.
One of the most important things is to get good hard wood. Hickory is your best bet. For adding weight on my longsword, I drilled in to the grip (the grip is fairly thick) added a couple of .50 cal lead muzzle load bullets, glued in a piece rebar, part of said rebar sticks out and used to help hold on the pommel along with more glue. The bottom of the pommel has more lead that I melted down and poured in. Not a lot though, I'm trying to stay away from very heavy pommels and trying different things to get a more accurate balanced blade. I'm in the process of making a new one and I hope to try out some strips 16 gauge steel around the grip. I'm always experimenting and even though I'm not doing anything with his precise geometry formulas, I have listend to what Peter Johnson has said about sword making and balance.
One of the most important things is to get good hard wood. Hickory is your best bet. For adding weight on my longsword, I drilled in to the grip (the grip is fairly thick) added a couple of .50 cal lead muzzle load bullets, glued in a piece rebar, part of said rebar sticks out and used to help hold on the pommel along with more glue. The bottom of the pommel has more lead that I melted down and poured in. Not a lot though, I'm trying to stay away from very heavy pommels and trying different things to get a more accurate balanced blade. I'm in the process of making a new one and I hope to try out some strips 16 gauge steel around the grip. I'm always experimenting and even though I'm not doing anything with his precise geometry formulas, I have listend to what Peter Johnson has said about sword making and balance.
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Ian Mac Pharlaine
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 11:10 am
- Location: Montgomery, Alabama
- Contact:
Regarding the Cold Steel... one word: NO
If youre going to go plastic, then use the Pentii Type III synthetic as it was designed to mimic the handling of a steel sword (though it admittedly is slightly on the light side in terms of mass, but all non-steel swords will have that problem).
As for steel, which is preferred, if you cant go for the higher end swords like Pavel Moc, Albion, or Ensifer, you can try Regenyei or Mac Armory; both of whom make awesome training swords in the $220 to $250 range. Very sturdy and economical.
If youre going to go plastic, then use the Pentii Type III synthetic as it was designed to mimic the handling of a steel sword (though it admittedly is slightly on the light side in terms of mass, but all non-steel swords will have that problem).
As for steel, which is preferred, if you cant go for the higher end swords like Pavel Moc, Albion, or Ensifer, you can try Regenyei or Mac Armory; both of whom make awesome training swords in the $220 to $250 range. Very sturdy and economical.